This is not yet a complete list of what and how I feed.
Please check back often. I will update and make corrections to this page often as my knowledge and observations grow. I will post a separate page that includes my research links to other items I feed as a part two to this post .
Every hen is different and what may be tolerated easily by some may not be tolerated well by others. Today's chickens are not the same chickens Grandma raised. They are bred for better egg production, wider varieties in egg shell color and size , over all appearance qualities, temperaments, different weather/climate hardiness, and other qualities. Some are bred to do best penned in runs while others are at their best foraging on the pastures . With this diverse breeding has come a need for the greater understanding of their feed and environmental needs. Factor in health concerns of the human who is going to consume the eggs and you may find things can get a bit more complicated.
Eggs can tell you a lot about a chickens living conditions. They contain the residues of antibiotics, vaccines, other medication substances either given or found in the environment, feed components, and other chemicals and bacteria in the environments. These substances may have served to protect and treat an ill chick, pullet or hen. They may have unscrupulously been feed to promote growth , or may have unwittingly been fed through feed and water sources. These substances can cause sever and sometimes life threatening illnesses and reactions in the humans who consume them as well as the in the chicks, pullets and hens.
Some people can acquire a few hens and pop into the local farm store for feed and off they go and neither they nor their backyard chicks, pullets or hens have another care in the world. While others like myself, must be ever so diligent and careful about what residues and substances are consumed in those lovely eggs. And some chicks, pullets and hens can need a little extra care and attention to be the beautiful pets and egg layers they are meant to be too.
What NOT to feed
chicks, pullets and laying hens:
( or any poultry for that matter)
Please note that many things on this list won't kill chicks, pullets and hens instantly but instead build up in their bodies and kill them slowly.
Sorghum; raw or cooked white, purple, red or yellow Potatoes skins or flesh or green potatoes skins or flesh; Avocado pits/seed/stone and skins and flesh ; Apple seeds , Peach pits, Pear seeds or Cherry seeds/stones/pits; Coffee or coffee beans; Chocolate; Candy; raw Acorns ; raw dried or under cooked Beans (legumes); Vetch seeds; Rhubarb stalks and leaves; immature eggplant and eggplant leaves; green unripe tomatoes; Night shade ; Onions in any form; Citrus ( lemons. limes, grapefruit or any type of oranges) ; junk food; processed/boxed foods ; moldy or rotten foods; Salty foods; high Sugary foods; sugary boxed cereals; Fried foods; dry Rice; raw eggs; Caffeine; Alcohol; pearl Barley; Mushrooms; raw Peanuts ( peanuts are legumes);
Please be clean about what you feed and how you feed it. Yes chickens can get E.coli, salmonella and other food born illnesses from fresh foods just as humans can. They can also get botulism from stale rotting foods too.
What, when and how much of it can you feed your chicks, pullets and hen.
(Please remember I am just getting started at transcribing my notes to this page and that this is not yet a full list.Thank you . :) )
Calcium and Grit should always be available for the laying hens to partake of when ever they feel the need. Especially if they are not pastured or free ranging. These should be available free choice even if they are pastured or free ranged daily. This insures they always have a source available to them . (Careful with the calcium. It should never be given to chicks or pullets who are not laying eggs yet! as it can cause kidney damage.) To much calcium can cause all sorts of problems in laying hens too. Unless you know you have hens with calcium absorption issues it's best to only offer calcium in cups they can partake of at will and not force feed it to them with feed and treats. Hens with calcium absorption issues can be given calcium enriched treats and snacks separately from the flock too. Taking her on a daily special walk away from the flock to do this can easily become an accepted part of their daily routine.
Waterers should be washed every day to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. A good organic apple cider vinegar with the mother is the best substance to wash them with. It is best to use plastic waterers and not the metal ones which can often oxidize and rust or otherwise effect water, treatments and the overall health of your chicks, pullets and hens . It is even better if you can find plastic waterers that are BPA free . Do not use dish soaps or other detergents which can leave behind harmful residues. A very week bleach water wash is beneficial once a month but be absolutely sure to always rinse the waterers extremely well inside and out after washing them with the weak bleach solution and don't use scented bleaches to do this with, as this can also leave behind harmful residues. Don't leave waterers in the sun as this will promote harmful bacteria and algae to grow in them especially in the hot days of late spring, summer and early fall.
ALWAYS wash the skins and rinds of any fruits, vegetables, seeds and grains to be certain to remove any bacteria or harmful elements that could be present on the surface. When in doubt peel the skins and only feed the flesh of fruits and vegetables, and soak seeds at least 12 hours before feeding.
Apples and other foods which can cause bowel movement to happen more rapidly can in some pullets just starting to lay cause the phenomenon of soft shelled eggs because it causes the eggs to move to rapidly through the development process before exiting at the vent. Apple seeds should be removed before feeding and all skin should be removed unless you know for certain no pesticides or other harmful chemicals have been used on the apples.
Apple cider vinegar (organic with the mother) and also referred to as ACV, can cause some hens to lay soft shelled eggs and in others it works to help the body process calcium . Moderation is always key. Two waterers should be offered, one with ACV and one with fresh water, on days ACV is offered to give hens a choice. A hen knows what to avoid and what is best for her.
Barley grain hulled or unhulled should not be fed to chicks and pullets and should only rarely and in very minimum quantity (no more than 20 percent of that days daily feed intake) be fed to laying hens. Studies show the carbohydrates in barely are difficult for chicks, pullets and hens to digest. In large quantities it can begin to block calcium absorption. Some studies indicate barley can also block the absorption of other nutrients in chicks, pullets, and hens . Studies also indicate it can cause sticky droppings resulting in a deadly condition knows as pasty butt in chicks and pullets. Research indicated a reduction in production of laying hens fed a diet constantly including or rich in barley. These are only a few of the issues found in the course of research and observations. Pearl barely cooked or uncooked should never be fed to chicks pullets or hens.
Buckwheat sprouts aka buckwheat lettuce should not be fed more than once or twice in a month and should never make up more that 2% of the total amount fed in greens because it can cause extreme sensitivity to sunlight.
Clover ( red or white) vs. Cinnamon. .. Both contain the blood thinning agent known as cumadin . So when feeding one do not feed the other. But both benefit chicks, pullets and hen in many ways.
Corn: corn is awesome for cold fall and winter days . It helps the hen raise her body temp . Corn should be limited or not given at all on warm spring and hot summer days for this very reason. Most chickens can handle the cold better than being over heated. Sprouted GMO-free corn is better digested by chickens and is one of the healthier ways to give them corn. My girls prefer sprouted, cracked or cooked corn . They, more often that not, leave the whole dried kernels in the bottom of their treat dish or on the run floor if I have included it in their scratch.
Crickets. When feeding crickets in winter buy pin heads (babies) and raise them on foods safe for chickens (do not feed them citrus, green Potato skins, avocado skins and other foods toxic to chickens -- see the list above ) . This is called gut loading. Foods meant for reptiles and often fed to Gut load crickets for reptiles contain foods not safe for chickens. To boost calcium put a pinch or two of powdered eggshells or powdered oyster shell in a zip lock style bag and then add the crickets and very gently shake them about in the dust . This is called calcium dusting and is a good way to add another touch of calcium to a hens diet who is exhibiting a calcium absorption issue, however there is no need to calcium dust crickets for chicks , pullets or healthy laying hens .
Diatomaceous Earth should only be food grade! Whether you are using it sprinkled in their food now and then for internal parasite control or if you are using it in bedding, nest boxes, or in their environment it should Only be food grade. (Be careful with its use as it can damage their lungs and yours if inhaled.)
Dairy , as in milk, yogurts, cheese, sour creams, buttermilk, sour milk, butter, excetera. ... The digestive tract of chicks, pullets and hens is a fickle thing. It is not equipped to digest the sugars in dairy . It is even less equipped to digest the processed, pasteurized, and other wise enriched and enhanced product often found on the supermarket shelves today even if they are marked "organic" . In Grandma's day , milk was generally fresh from the cow, buttermilk was the first liquid removed for making butter and cheeses really were made from wholesome, raw, fresh milk with all its lovely natural enzymes and beautiful healthy bacteria and things still intact and not removed and then artificially "put back" . Chickens could sample a little buttermilk , maybe a touch of cheese, or some left over oatmeal soaked with butter and cream and may have had little if any ill effect from the tasty treat. But in today's world raw milk is harder and harder to come buy and very few people make their own butter. That buttermilk you buy in the store isn't true buttermilk. Blue cheese contains molds and all molds are harmful to poultry. And as for cheese , well unless you make it your self , who really knows if the milks they are made from contains antibiotics or other growth hormones that are not removed by the process of making cheese. But there is still yogurt. And if you can acquire raw milk free from antibiotics and steroids or other growth hormones and toxins you can make your own safe clean yogurt . If for some reason you find you need to give your chick , pullet or hen dairy (and there are some very good reasons for doing so) use a whole milk yogurt with live culture. Whole milk live cultured Greek yogurt is best if you must use it . It is higher in proteins and those lovely goodies we call probiotics. And Yes, chicks, pullets and hens do benefit from probiotics .
Eggs can be cooked in the oven or microwave. ( do not fry them .) Feeding laying hens a bit of scrambled egg now and then helps to boost their protein levels which is vital to laying hens production. One serving in the amounts I give at the end of this paragraph, about three times a week per chick pullet or hen is good IF you are not able to feed a standard pellet or crumble bought at the feed store. IF you are feeding a store bought feed then feeding a serving of scrambled eggs once a week or less is sufficient as a treat. This practice can also be helpful in preventing them from eating their own eggs . The extra protein is especially beneficial during molting in the fall and the protein can even be boosted with the addition of whole milk Greek yogurt with live culture . But remember Moderation is key if you are scrambling eggs with yogurt ! I feed 1/2 egg per 4 chicks, 1 egg per 4 pullets and 1 egg per 2 laying hens mixed into one of their feedings. During molting you can feed up to 1 egg per hen if you like. If I have a need to , I use only 1/4 teaspoon whole milk Greek yogurt with live culture per egg. If I am feeding the yogurt for the probiotic properties, I will cook the eggs first with out the yogurt, then when they have cooled I will mash them well with the yogurt . Heat can destroy the probiotics.
Egg shells should be washed, air dried, and baked at 250°F until completely dried and then powdered. This should be sprinkled into the food at about 1/8th teaspoon per hen up to two to three times a week for hens prone to soft shelled eggs who do not get enough calcium from freely offered dishes of oysters shell calcium. If the hens are laying normally you can mix the powdered shells in with oyster shell calcium or offer them in a separate cup as you would normally do with the oyster shell calcium. Powdered egg shell can also be sprinkled out with scratch right on the ground and the hens can forage for it as they would for seed and other minerals in the dirt. ( Don't sprinkle the purchased oyster shell calcium out on the ground as its just a waist of money if they don't forage for it .)
Greens, Grains and Seeds: leafy greens, sprouts, shoots , fodder, soaked or dry grains and seeds. When feeding greens that are not anchored by their roots in the ground mince them fine for chicks (or use a blender or food processor to liquefy them and incorporate them into the grain mash). Chop them to 1/8th inch pieces for pullets and chop them into approximately 1/8th to 1/4 inch pieces for full grown hens and offer them with whole grains, seeds, in the same pan to help prevent them from becoming a balled up mass that can block and or sour the chickens crop. ALWAYS be sure Grit is available to them especially when feeding any form of greens, grains and seeds !!
Mash . Mash is a form of feed. (I will address fermenting grains and feed in a later post) When I make mash it is made from soaked or fermented grains and seeds, juices of greens, well macerated greens, sprouts, shoots, fodder, fruits, vegetables, eggs, and seeds. It is the consistency of gruel or creamed cereal like cream of rice or cream of wheat. An old blender or old food processor is best to achieve this texture. This is great for chicks and can be used for pullets and hens as well. Mash can be extremely useful to feed in cases of an ill chick , pullet or hen who is recovering from a sour or blocked crop as it is easier to digest.
Meat. Never feed raw meat! Be careful feeding chicks, pullets and hens meat. Whether it's table scraps or scraps from the butchers saw many store bought commercial meats contain steroids, antibiotics and other harmful substances that do not dissipate when cooked. This can be true of store bought game type meats raised on farms as well. This is most often how a build up of steroids and other growth promoting chemicals make their way into the hen and her egg when she is not out right fed them. In truth the only "clean" meat that should be fed is wild hunted game. But again they can also be effected by chemical substances that have leached into their natural environment.
Pecans. Some chicks, hens and pullets may find pecan meats quite tasty but Don't leave the shells in runs or where chicks, pullets or hens have access to them in large quantity. If you wish to offer pecan nut meats it is better to do so out of the shells and in a treat pan where left overs can be removed and not left go rancid and develop toxic mold.
Probiotics and electrolyte in waterers at least once a week will help hens stay healthy. Always offer another waterer filled with fresh water at the same time.
Rye should not be fed in any form before 40 weeks of age because it can cause runny sticky poo resulting in the blocked vent condition known as pasty butt.
Scratch is a term used to refer to feed and/or grains tossed out onto the ground for chicks, pullets and hens to peck at and eat right off of the ground. The practice is used to encourage their natural foraging behaviors, to help break boredom, and to supplement their feeding program with treats . It is not meant to nor should it be the only source of feed offered to chicks, pullets and hens. Scratch is often made up predominately of a corn based mix of grains and seed . If you are able to offer a commercial feed of some sort scratch should be fed sparingly. The general consensus recommends you should offer no more than your flock can consume in 15 to 20 minutes. Because I do not use a commercial feed ( and because my hens are not allowed to be out side of an inclosed run) I make up my own daily scratch. I use a variety of sprouts, shoots, fodder, diced or chopped greens, dried meal worms , dried crickets, live worms, nuts and different seed in a range of sizes and grit to mimic what my hens would find out in the yard if they were allowed to roam and find tasty yums for themselves. I leave out things like corn on the hot days and on colder days I include corn and the amount varies buy predicted temperature. The amount I use is no more than 20 percent of their overall daily feed total . Also I some times split the scratch amount up in to two offering. One in the morning and one in the evening when weather predicts cooler or cold night. This allows them to both wake up to something that helps warm them up on the cold days and to go to bed with full crops which helps to keep their body heat up. I do not offer high grain content scratch in the evening on warm or hot nights ( instead I use cooling fruits and vegetables as the evening treat) . Every day I try to very what I offer in the scratch blend so as to offer them the most diverse experience I can . If oat grouts are offered in the scratch the amount I use is again based on predicted weather conditions as oats also help them raise their body temperature as well . And as with the corn I limit the amount or leave out the oats on hot days .
Worms . Raising worms to feed chickens is a great way to supplement their diet with proteins. Worms should be raised with out the foods that are toxic to chickens as you would with crickets.
